I just came back from my third trip to Canada’s East Coast, or ‘The Maritimes’ as we call it. Made up of New Brunswick, Nova Scotia, Prince Edward Island (and sometimes Newfoundland), the Maritimes front the Atlantic Ocean and its various sub-basins. With fishing being one of the staples of the Maritime economy, fresh seafood abounds almost year-round.
For the wallet-conscious, the easiest way to enjoy said seafood is also probably the most caloric. Fried fish and seafood are featured on almost every menu from humble diner to upscale eatery. Sometimes the fare arrives fried without a mention of it on the menu, which is why I ended up enjoying 3 different incarnations of fried seafood in 2 days.
The fish cakes at Economy Shoe Shop Cafe and Bar in Halifax were some of the best I’ve ever had. It was, mind you, 2 PM and the first thing I’d eaten all day. Still despite the starvation that was probably clouding my judgement they were pretty darn good, fluffy inside but super-crisp on the outside, served with greens and acidic tomato-cucumber salsa (with which they could have been a little more generous…) to balance out the dish. While it was definitely present, these 3 golden babies didn’t taste purely of potato (ie. stinginess) like so many other incarnations tend to be. Pretty darn good. (My friend’s seafood soup fared well too, though it was probably the richest thing I’ve ever tasted being composed of nothing more than seafood, cream and butter.)
Fish Cakes at the Economy Shoe Shop in Halifax, Nova Scotia
That very same night, sipping on an IPA at the Big Tide Brewing Co., it seemed only appropriate to order the Clams and Chips, described as “local clams, lightly breaded”, served with fries (which, it turns out, also came in the sweet potato variety) and coleslaw. This proved to be a heaping plate of fried food which I was only too glad to share with the rest of the table. It tasted good, though I found the ‘clamminess’ of clams got lost beneath the not-so-light breaded exterior. (That’s their ‘Hot Thanksgiving Club’ in the background)
Clams and Chips at Big Tide Brewing Co. in St. John, New Brunswick
Last but not least, for my final meal in the Maritimes the following day, I ordered the ‘Scallop Roll Platter’ at the pleasant Carman’s Diner in Saint Stephen, New Brunwick (apparently Canada’s chocolate capital, who knew). To be fair, I did not realize the scallops were going to be fried, expecting it to be an economic version of the pricier lobster roll (which is usually more of a mayonnaisey salad in a hot dog bun). It was served in a hot dog bun, with the tartar sauce I had opted into (who would say no?), but the sandwich consisted instead of 5 deep-fried scallops. Served again with coleslaw and unremarkable fries (which became a little more remarkable when doused in vinegar), it was the most humble of the three meals but satisfying in it’s own way, the scallops slightly but not unpleasantly chewy, retaining their ‘scallopyness’ more than the clams did.
Scallop Roll Platter at Carman's Diner in Saint Stephen, NB
The diner is worth a visit if you are ever driving through New Brunswick. Like The Cabin, another adorable diner I visited on this trip near Fredericton, Carman’s features a jukebox at every table. Actually, as well as both having a facebook page (see links), both diners appeared to have the exact same selection of songs, indicating perhaps the presence of a jukebox company in New Brunswick that supplies adorable diners with tunes.
Carman's Diner in Saint Stephen, NB
Picking some tunes at the Cabin in Fredericton, NB
This post would not be complete without mentioning that at most places, you can find a combination of all these fried items, called simply ‘The Seafood Platter’. I was fortunate enough to sample one last summer in Northern-Eastern New Brunswick, somewhere near the Kouchibouguac national park.
Fried fish, clams, scallops and shrimp
Needless to say, I spent the following week eating only organic microgreens in an attempt to unclog my arteries. Just kidding.
I enjoy eating. 